Day 19

Unfortunately, we have been devoid of internet access for three days. Before we left Dar es Salaam, our amazing supervisor surprised us with individual mobile internet sticks so we could have internet access in our very own hotel rooms. No more slumming it in internet cafes! Sadly, not even magical internet sticks are immune to server failure. Never fear, I’ve retroactively uploaded my posts from the past few days for your reading enjoyment.

Today was a wonderful day, and not just because it was our last day of office visits. We woke up early for a 7:30 am meeting with yet another district manager, after which we returned to the hotel for breakfast. Then, it was out of Iringa town and into the vastness of rural Iringa. Our objective today was to deliver our letters of introduction to the villages around our rock shelter, as well as distribute academic posters about our research in Iringa and general Tanzanian culture history to local schools and offices. We started with the Kalenga museum, which is dedicated to the late Chief Mkwawa, leader of the Wahehe rebellion in the 19th century. Mkwawa dramatically committed suicide rather than surrender to German colonial authorities, and coincidentally chose to do so in the very same rock shelter where we plan to work this summer. Consequently, he’s become kind of our patron folk hero, or possibly patron spook. After closely inspecting the display of his disembodied skull, we continued on to Nyamahana and Nzihi, the village closest to our site and the main village in the area, respectively. Visiting the village chairpersons was a really unique experience. Egalitarianism and democracy are alive and well in local organization: everyone gets a chance to speak, and everyone is treated with equal respect. We were also able to donate some school supplies to the primary school in Nzihi, courtesy of my parents and Jenn’s aunt. We gave some coloured pens and highlighters to some kids on the side of the road who, after thanking us politely, ran around screaming and holding them in their air, half out of joy and half out of excitement over seeing white people.

By far, the most memorable part of the day was our trip to Magubike, the village next to my supervisor’s other pango site of the same name. After meeting with the village chairwoman, we drove to the nearby secondary school that Pam, Katie, and Pastory contributed to help build in 2008. In front of 109 students, we individually introduced ourselves in swahili, presented the three different posters (including one specifically about the Magubike site), and donated an entire bag of school supplies. I wish my mom and dad could have been there to see that little assembly. At the end of our presentation, Pastory asked who wanted to go to university and every single student raised their hand. I don’t think a person ever forgets a moment like that. There is no greater validation for one’s research than seeing it positively affect the lives of others. Also, we may have spawned a mini army of future archaeologists in the middle of rural Iringa. It was a nice way to end our two week run of office visits.

Last but not least, our travels today took us most of the way to our site, allowing us to get to know the surrounding area. I can honestly report that there are SIX orthodox churches located on the way to our pango. And a 7th one immediately after the turn off. Apparently “Orthodoksi” is thriving out here in Iringa. Even the secondary school we were at today was named St. Demetrios. Proof positive that God has a sense of humour.